The month of August 2023 was a special one for skywatchers and photographers alike, as it featured not one, but two full moons. This rare occurrence, known as a Blue Moon, happens when there are two full moons in a single calendar month. In this blog post, we’ll delve into the breathtaking experience of photographing these celestial events in the picturesque setting of Halkidiki, Greece, specifically at a rocky beach.

I had the opportunity to capture both full moons in all their glory from the rocky beaches of Halkidiki, Greece. The stunning scenery of the rocky beach provided the perfect backdrop for the celestial spectacle.

Essential Equipment for Moon Photography

•  A sturdy tripod: This will help you achieve sharp and steady images, especially when using longer exposure times.
•  A telephoto lens: Opt for a lens with a focal length of at least 200mm to capture the moon’s intricate details and have it appear big in your frame.
• A remote shutter release: This will minimize camera shake when pressing the shutter button.

Planning the Shoot

   Familiarize yourself with the moonrise and moonset times for the specific dates. Use smartphone apps like PhotoPills or online tools like Stellarium to determine the best time to photograph the moon rising or setting against the landscape. Consider incorporating other elements into your composition, such as silhouettes of rocks, waves, or nearby structures, to add depth and interest. The moon’s position in the sky changes quickly, so it’s important to be prepared and ready to capture the shot when the moment arises.

Camera Settings and Techniques

• Use manual mode to have full control over your camera settings.
• Set a low ISO (e.g., 100-400) to minimize noise and ensure sharp details.
• Start with an aperture around f/8 to f/11 for optimal sharpness.
• Experiment with different shutter speeds, but a starting point could be around 1/125th of a second for a well-exposed and sharp moon.
• Bracket your shots by adjusting the exposure to capture both the moon’s details and the surrounding landscape.

Conclusion

Photographing the two full moons of August 2023 was a rare opportunity. By planning ahead, using the right equipment and considering the composition I was able to capture some photos that I really liked. Plus it’s always great spending a warm summer night at the beach! Here is a selection of my personal favorite full moon photos in case you want to have a look!

The post Photographing the Blue Moon of August 2023 appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

Astrophotography is a captivating genre of photography that allows us to capture the breathtaking beauty of the night sky. However, it can be challenging for beginners to achieve the desired results due to some common mistakes. In this blog post, we will explore these mistakes and provide valuable tips on how to avoid them, ensuring that your astrophotography journey is a successful one.

Poor Planning

Mistake: Heading out without proper planning can result in missed opportunities and disappointment.

Solution: Research the celestial events, moon phases, and weather conditions in advance. Use astronomy apps or websites to determine the best time and location for your shoot. Find your composition in the daytime.

Inadequate Gear

Mistake: Using unsuitable equipment can limit the quality of your astrophotography.

Solution: Invest in a sturdy tripod, a wide-angle lens with a fast aperture, and a camera with good low-light performance. Consider purchasing a star tracker for longer exposures.

Incorrect Camera Settings

Mistake: Incorrect camera settings can lead to underexposed or overexposed images.

Solution: Set your camera to manual mode and experiment with different settings. Start with a wide aperture (low f-stop number), high ISO (e.g., 1600-3200), and a long exposure time (typically 15-30 seconds). Adjust these settings based on the scene’s brightness and the desired effect.

Lack of Focus

Mistake: Capturing blurry stars is a common issue in astrophotography.

Solution: Use manual focus and set it to infinity. Alternatively, use the live view mode to zoom in on a bright star and adjust the focus until it appears sharp. Read more here on how to achieve sharp focus in astrophotography.

Light Pollution

Mistake: Shooting in areas with excessive light pollution can diminish the visibility of stars and introduce unwanted artifacts.

Solution: Plan your shoot in locations away from city lights. Consider visiting dark sky reserves or remote areas with minimal light pollution. Use light pollution filters or post-processing techniques to reduce its impact.

Neglecting Composition

Mistake: Failing to consider the composition can result in uninteresting astrophotography.

Solution: Incorporate elements such as landscapes, silhouettes, or interesting foreground objects to add depth and visual interest to your images. Experiment with different angles and perspectives to create captivating compositions.

Skipping Post-Processing

Mistake: Neglecting post-processing can limit the overall quality of your astrophotography.

Solution: Learn basic post-processing techniques to enhance your images. Adjust the exposure, contrast, and colors to bring out the details in the night sky. Be careful not to overdo it, as it can lead to unnatural-looking images.

Impatience

Mistake: Astrophotography requires patience and practice. Expecting instant success can lead to frustration.

Solution: Be patient and persistent. Experiment with different techniques and settings. Learn from your mistakes and keep refining your skills over time.

Conclusion

Astrophotography is a rewarding and magical pursuit, but it requires attention to detail and continuous learning. By avoiding these common astrophotography mistakes and following the provided solutions, you will be well on your way to capturing stunning images of the night sky. Remember, practice makes perfect, so keep exploring, experimenting, and enjoying the wonders of astrophotography.

Here is a selection of my favorite astrophotography photos in case you want to have a look! Clear skies!

The post Common Astrophotography Mistakes and How to Avoid Them appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

The Perseids meteor shower is one of the most popular meteor showers of the year, and for good reason. It’s known for its bright meteors and high rates, with up to 100 meteors per hour possible during the peak. If you’re looking to capture some amazing photos of the Perseids, here are a few tips:

Plan ahead. The Perseids are active from July 17 to August 24, but the peak is on August 12 and 13. This is the best time to see the most meteors, so plan your shoot accordingly. The new moon is on August 16 so the sky will be very dark.

Find a dark location. The darker the sky, the better you’ll be able to see the meteors. If you can, head to a rural area with little light pollution.

Give your eyes time to adjust. Once you’re in a dark location, give your eyes at least 15 minutes to adjust to the darkness. This will help you see the fainter meteors. A headlight with red light will help you not to lose your night vision while setting up your camera.

Use a tripod. You want your camera steady for the long exposures you are going to take.

Use a wide-angle lens. You’ll want to use a wide-angle lens to capture as much of the sky as possible. A focal length of 10-24mm is ideal.

Set your camera to manual mode. This will give you more control over your settings. You’ll want to set your ISO to a high setting, such as 1600 or 3200, to ensure that you can capture the faint meteors. You’ll also want to set your shutter speed to a slow setting, such as 20-30 seconds, to allow enough light in. Find the maximum shutter speed which doesn’t create star trails. You want the stars to be pin sharp!

Use a remote shutter release. This way you will be able to avoid camera shake and take sequential photographs.

Be patient. It may take some time before you see a meteor, but be patient and keep looking up. The Perseids are a spectacular sight, and you’re sure to be rewarded for your patience.

Have fun! Photographing the Perseids is a great way to experience the beauty of the night sky.

I hope these tips help you capture some amazing photos of the Perseid meteor shower in August 2023!

Here are a few photos of the Perseid meteor shower I have captured in the past if you want to have a look!

The post How to Photograph the Perseids Meteor Shower in August 2023 appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

Astrophotography allows us to capture the mesmerizing beauty of the night sky, but achieving sharp focus in low light conditions can be a challenge. Precise focus is crucial for capturing breathtaking images of celestial objects. In this article, we will explore some essential tips and techniques to help you achieve sharp focus in nighttime astrophotography.

Use Manual Focus

Switching to manual focus mode is crucial for astrophotography. Auto-focus systems struggle in low light conditions, often resulting in blurry images. Take control and adjust the focus manually using the focus ring on your lens. Find a bright star and use the magnification feature on your camera’s Live View to carefully fine-tune the focus until the star appears as a pinpoint of light.

Utilize Manual Focus Assist Tools

Some cameras offer manual focus assist tools. Features like focus peaking or digital zoom can significantly aid in achieving precise focus. Enable these tools in your camera’s settings and utilize them to ensure accurate focusing on the stars.

Utilize Infinity Focus

In astrophotography, many subjects are at an infinite distance from the camera. To ensure sharp focus, set your lens to infinity focus. Most lenses have an infinity symbol (∞) on the focus ring. Align this symbol with the marker or use trial and error to find the precise point of infinity focus. A piece of tape can help secure the focus ring in place.

Utilize Hyperfocal Distance

When shooting astrophotography (or landscapes and cityscapes) at night, utilizing the hyperfocal distance technique can be advantageous. By setting your lens to the hyperfocal distance, you can achieve maximum depth of field, ensuring sharp focus from the foreground to the background. Use a hyperfocal distance calculator or smartphone app to determine the ideal settings for your lens and aperture.

Take Test Shots

To confirm that you have achieved sharp focus, take test shots of the night sky and review them on your camera’s LCD screen. Zoom in to inspect the stars for sharpness and adjust the focus if necessary. It may take a few attempts to achieve the desired focus, so be patient and persistent.

Use a Bahtinov Mask

A Bahtinov mask is a helpful tool for achieving precise focus in astrophotography. It consists of a patterned mask placed over the front of the lens. When properly focused, the mask produces a distinct pattern of diffraction spikes around bright stars. Adjust the focus until the spikes are symmetrical and centered, indicating optimal focus.

Conclusion

Achieving sharp focus in nighttime astrophotography is essential for capturing stunning images of the night sky. By utilizing manual focus, infinity focus, test shots, manual focus assist tools and Bahtinov masks you can significantly improve the sharpness and clarity of your astrophotography. Experiment with different techniques, practice regularly, and be patient in your quest to master the art of focusing at night. With dedication and persistence, you’ll be able to capture breathtaking images of the cosmos that will leave viewers in awe! Here are some of my personal favorite photographs of the night sky if you want to have a look!

The post Astrophotography: Pro Tips for Achieving Sharp Focus in Nighttime Shots appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

Have you ever wanted to remove the stars in your astrophotography photos? Perhaps you want to focus on the details of your deep-sky object, or maybe you want to process the stars and the object separately to achieve a punchy image without blowing out the stars. Whatever your reason, there is a simple and free software called StarNet (formerly known as StarNet++) that can help you. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to use StarNet to remove stars from your photos.

StarNet is a neural network-based software that removes stars from images in a single step. It works by analyzing your image and determining which pixels are stars and which are the background or the object. The star pixels are then replaced with an interpolation of the surrounding pixels, resulting in a starless image.

Download StarNet++

First download StarNet from its official website. The command line tool is available for Windows, Linux and Mac OS. The Mac OS version is relatively new and still experimental so you might find some bugs. The graphical user interface version is available only for Windows. Choose the one that matches your operating system and download it.

Extract StarNet++

Once you have downloaded StarNet, you will need to extract it. You will get a folder called StarNetv2CLI_Win. Inside this folder, you will find the starnet++.exe application file if you have downloaded the command line tool or starnetGUI.exe if you have downloaded the graphical user interface version.

Run StarNet++

All you need to do now is place your astrophotography image in the same folder where StarNet is stored. The image must be in .TIF format. Then, drag and drop your image file onto the appropriate application icon if you have downloaded the command line tool or use the browse button of the graphical user interface button to load your image. A black window will appear and StarNet will begin removing stars from your image.

Check Your Results

When StarNet finishes processing your image, it will create a new file with -Starless appended to its name. For example, if your original image was called DSF4902.tif, then your starless image will be called DSF4902-Starless.tif. You can open this file with any image viewer or editor and check your results.

You should see that all the stars have been removed from your image, leaving only the background. Depending on your image, you may see some artifacts in the starless image, but you can fix them later with some post-processing.

Process Your Images

Now that you have removed the stars from your image, you can process it as you wish. Open both images in Photoshop with the starless image at the top. Next change its blend mode to Difference and press Ctrl + Alt + Shift + e to create a stamp of the visible layers. This will create a layer which contains only the stars.

Next, you can enhance the details of your starless image, adjust the colors and contrast, reduce noise and artifacts, etc. You can also process your stars only image separately if you want to add some saturation and vibrance or adjust the temperature for example.

Add the Stars Back

If you want to add your stars back to your final image, make sure the stars only image is at the top and change its blend mode from Normal to Screen. You can also adjust its opacity if you want to make the stars less prominent. You can even apply a star reduction technique.

Final Words

And that’s it! You have successfully removed and added back the stars to your astrophotography image using StarNet++. This technique works great for wide angle astrophotography images like landscape images with the Milky Way! I hope you found this blog post helpful and informative. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them in the comments below.

And if you are interested, here is a collection of my favorite Milky Way photos!

Clear Skies!

The post How to Remove Stars With StarNet appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

Most astrophotographers undoubtedly enjoy capturing the center of our Milky Way galaxy. Since the core season of the Milky Way begins in March, I thought I’d provide some tips and tricks to help you improve your milky way photography. So, let’s get started!

1. Find dark skies

The first step in capturing an excellent photo of the Milky Way is to seek for the darkest sky possible. Without a dark sky, no matter what gear you have, filters you employ, or post processing you do, you won’t get very far. As a result, utilise a website like https://www.lightpollutionmap.info/ to discover a local spot that isn’t excessively light polluted. But don’t forget to think about which way you’ll be facing. Make sure there are no towns or cities towards where you’re photographing.

2. Scout in the daytime

Trying to come up with an interesting composition late at night is not only difficult, but also dangerous. Make use of the daylight to scout the area for an unique subject or composition. Also, keep an eye out for potential hazards such as a hole in the ground or a cliff edge. This way, you’ll be prepared for the night, knowing exactly what your composition will be and what to avoid. During the day, take a couple photographs with your camera or even your smartphone to ensure that your composition works.

3. Plan your shot

Nowadays you can even plan your shot even before getting at the location. Search Google for photographs of the location and use Google Maps Street View to take a look around. You can also use an app like Photo Pills to see where the Milky Way is, when the Milky Way Core is visible, and other information.

4. Use a fast lens

A fast lens is required to catch as many details of the Milky Way as possible. At the very least, I recommend f2.8, but if you can find a lens that opens up to f1.8 or f1.4, that’ll be much better. The more light you gather, the less noise there will be in the photograph, the brighter the milky way will be, and the more detail there will be. A wider aperture allows you to use a lower ISO, resulting in less noise.

5. Use a star tracker

The rotation of the earth limits the exposure time. This means that, in order to eliminate star trails, there is an upper limit on your exposure time based on your lens and camera. Because it moves with the earth, a star tracker allows you to get around this restriction. As a result, while your stars are round and pinpoint, you can easily acquire 1 or 2 minute exposures. You can also keep your ISO low, resulting in a lower-noise image. You’ll eventually get more information, the milky way will be brighter, and the image quality will be so much better!

6. Stack your photos

No matter whether you have a star tracker or not you can use a technique called photo stacking in order to get rid of the noise in your astrophotos. You take multiple photos of the same scene without moving your camera which you later blend together using a software. Because noise is distributed randomly throughout the image, these software average pixels and remove noise as a result. I like using Sequator which is a free software for Windows. If you are a Mac user, try Starry Landscape Stacker. However, it is not free. Experiment to find out how many photos you will need to stack in order to create a great final image.

I hope you find those tips and tricks useful! You can also check my How to photograph the milky way for beginners tutorial and my How to stack Milky Way photos using Sequator!

The post 6 Tips to Improve your Milky Way Photography appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

I find milky way photography quite fascinating! Probably because you have the opportunity to see through your camera something you cannot see with your naked eyes. I also love staying out on a warm summer night enjoying the starry sky while taking pictures.

Many times I scout a location during the day to find a good composition of the galaxy before going out at night. Apart from that I also use an application for my phone, called PhotoPills. It allows me to easily plan a milky way photo. Via the app I can find the exact date and time when the milky way will be where I want. I can also check when the milky way core will be visible and whether the milky way is vertical or it creates an arch. Also via the augmented reality feature I can see in the screen of my phone how the milky way will look by using the camera of my phone. So, here are two video tutorials showing how to plan a milky way photo using PhotoPills application and how to use the augmented reality feature.

PhotoPills is a paid app. I am not affiliated or sponsored by this app. I find it very useful though and that’s why I thought to show you how I use it. It is available for Android and iPhone.

I have also written a tutorial on how to photograph the milky way for beginners which you might find useful!

The post How to plan a Milky Way photo appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

Milky way photos are really impressive for sure. However capturing photos of the night sky pushes the sensors of modern DSLRs and mirrorless cameras to their limits. If you want more details I have also written a tutorial on how to photograph the milky way. In a few words photographing a brilliant milky way photo with beautiful colors and pinpoint stars requires a shutter speed of a few seconds, depending on your camera and lens, which means you will have to use a high ISO. Usually something like 1600 or 3200. And this introduces noise in your image. One way to get a noise free image is to use a star tracker. This equipment will allow you to shoot longer exposures with low ISO keeping noise low as well. For those of us who do not own a start tracker though there is Sequator. Sequator is only available for Windows. If you are using Mac OS you can try one of the alternatives such as Starry Landscape Stacker.

When I want to stack Milky Way photos I usually capture a dozen of photos with my camera. Once you have your photos ready you can import them into Sequator. It supports both RAW and jpeg/tiff files. Keep in mind that Sequator doesn’t support the Prophoto RGB format. The colors of your photo will look strange if it is in this format. I usually export my photos from Lightroom in TIFF format, Adobe RGB as Color Space and 16bits as Bit Depth.

This is the user interface of the software.

So click on the Star Images and load your images. Sequator will automatically choose one of them as the base image. This is the image that Sequator will use to stack the photos onto. Sequator will automatically chooses the middle image for you. You can change it to the one you prefer by clicking on the “Base image”.

In this tutorial I will use 5 photos taken with my Fujifilm X-T20, the Samyang 12mm at f/2.8, ISO 1600, 15 seconds.

Afterwards you might add noise images which are also known as dark frames. You create those images by taking photos just after you have finished taking your star photos, but with the lens cap on. These images are used to remove the noise produced by the sensor heat from your final image. 5 to 10 images are enough, although I don’t usually get into this process.

Now double click on Output and navigate to where you want to save your star trails final image. A 16 bit tiff file will be produced at the end which includes enough color information to further process it if you wish. Processing Milky Way photos is a tutorial on its own though!

In composition we will choose Align Stars in order Sequator to align our images based on the stars. At this points you must also check the Freeze ground checkbox along with selective. This way both sky and ground will be stacked and as a result you will get a sharp and overall clean image.

Next you have to define the sky part of your photos. Click on the “Sky Region”. Usually I choose the irregular mask and I paint on the sky. To remove an area you painted just use the right mouse button. Using the scroll wheel you can increase and decrease the brush size.

• Auto brightness will adjust the brightness levels in your image in case you have accumulated a too long exposure. I usually turn it off.
• High dynamic range isn’t something I use. Usually it is better to leave it off.
• Remove dynamic noises will try to remove hot pixels. If you have used Noise images you can leave this off.
• Reduce light pollution tries to reduce the effects of city lights. You can play with it and see if it improves your image if you have such a case. Usually I leave it off.
• Reduce distortion effects will help in case your star images have significant displacement because of the lens or projection distortion.
• Enhance starlight will increase the brightness of your stars. I prefer doing this myself in post.
• Merge pixels tries to create a cleaner image but since it reduces the image size I also leave it off.
• Color space lets you choose between sRGB, RGB and Linear. Just leave it to sRGB since this is the most common color space used all over the internet.

Once you are ready click on Start. Sequator will start processing your images and after a while, depending on the number of your images and your computer’s cpu, it will show you the final result!

Here you can see how much cleaner and noise free the final image is by using just 5 photos. Stacking images can take your astrophotography to the next level!

The post How to stack Milky Way photos using Sequator appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

I always found fascinating the milky way and the night sky since I was a little kid. When I got my first DSLR camera I started experimenting with astrophotography by photographing the milky way and star trails. In this tutorial I will share with you some information to help beginners get started and photograph the milky way.

Basic gear

A camera with manual exposure control of aperture, shutter speed and ISO. And manual focus as well. Of course a full frame camera would be better since it handles better noise in high ISO. But an APSC sensor will also do the job. It doesn’t really matter whether it is a DSLR or a mirrorless camera.

A wide angle and fast lens. A wide lens means you can get a bigger part of the milky way in your frame as well as part of the foreground to achieve a good composition. Something like 14mm for full frame or 10mm for APSC will be ok. Also a fast lens will allow you to capture more light and keep ISO lower in order to avoid noise. Something like f/1.4 and f/2.8 would be ideal.

A sturdy tripod. Since you will have to take exposures of many seconds you have to be sure that your camera will stay still. Even the slightest movement will ruin your photo.

Good to have gear

A headlamp with white and red light so that you can find your way in the dark and not ruin your night vision. Moreover you can use it to light paint the scene!

A remote release cable to avoid camera shake and take consequent shots. Use this to trigger your shutter. Alternatively you can always set a timer of 2 seconds so that the camera will stabilize before taking the shot.

Dark skies, light pollution and the moon

First of all in order to photograph the milky way you must find dark sky. This means getting away from big cities to avoid light pollution. A light pollution map will help to find such a location. Of course there are such applications for Android and iOS as well. Moreover since you need the darkest sky possible you should schedule your photo shooting around new moon.

Focusing at night

Probably the biggest problem when I first started taking pictures of the milky way was focusing. There are a couple of different ways to focus correctly at night. First set your aperture to the widest possible (or the one you have chosen to shoot with).

If there is a light source far away you can use this to auto focus on it and afterwards change your lens to manual focus and keep it like this the whole night. Press your shutter up to half so that your camera auto focuses and without leaving it change your lens to manual focus. There should be a button for this on it. Now you can leave the shutter button and your lens will keep this focus. Just remember to change it back to auto focus when you finish.

If your lens has a focusing distance ring you can usually set it to infinity and afterwards take it back a little to have everything in focus. Another way is to find a bright star in the sky and use this to manually focus using your live view screen.

Alternatively if you have a mirrorless camera that shows you the focus distance you can use this to manually focus to infinity. Of course if you have a foreground element pretty close to you you might need to focus stack in order to have everything in focus.

No matter which method you choose I suggest to switch to live view mode and zoom in on your screen. Check your stars so that they are as sharp as possible by playing with the focus ring of your lens.

Camera Settings

First set your lens to its widest possible apperture, let’s say f/2, or 1 stop up, f/2.8, since it will usually be a little sharper there. Remember you have to get as much light as possible.

Next switch your camera to manual mode and set ISO to the highest one in which you get reasonable noise. For APSC sensors this would be something like 1600 or 3200. For full frame cameras you can go with 3200 or 6400 for start.

Next you will have to find the shutter speed. Since earth and the stars are constantly moving if you set your shutter speed too high you will end up with star trails and a blurry milky way. You can follow the 500 rule. To determine the optimal exposure time, take 500 and divide it by the effective focal length of the lens

exposure time = 500/(crop-factor × focal length)

A full frame camera has a crop factor of 1 while an APSC camera has a crop factor of 1.5. For example if you are shooting with a 20mm lens on a full frame camera, you divide 500 by 20, which yields 25 seconds. That’s the longest shutter speed you should use before star trails start to appear. But since this rule seems fails to work correctly with modern cameras you might have to make your shutter speed even shorter. I advise to use this star trails calculator which uses the NPF rule which is most suitable for modern cameras. You can always test and see what satisfies you.

Finally you have to shoot RAW in order to post process your photographs and get the most details and color out of them. This way you can also change the white balance afterwards to something that looks pleasing to you. I leave my white balance to auto always and I change it at post.

Composition

Shooting the milky way on its own can look great at the beginning at least. However it’s always a good idea to find a wonderful location to incorporate with the milky way. A strong foreground element always helps. Try to tell a story with your photo.

Extra tip

I use a mobile application called Photo Pills to help me with my milky way shots. It can show you the position of the milky way, how much visible will it be, when it’s galactic center will appear and also calculate the shutter speed to avoid moving stars. It’s available for both Android and iOS.

And some last words. Go out and shoot! Experiment and learn your gear! You don’t need the latest and most expensive camera and lens to start.

Feel free to ask any questions or share your milky way shots with me! And clear skies!

The post How to photograph the milky way for beginners appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.

Although a thunderstorm ruined my initial plan to photograph the Perseids meteor shower I didn’t give up. I packed up my things but didn’t return home. Instead I headed towards the opposite direction where the sky was clear in order to try and photograph the Perseids. I managed to get one more shooting star along with the milky way core in one of my favorite locations in Chalkidiki. I was planning to shoot the milky way here for a long time now but there is a bar there whose lights never allowed me to do so. Well this summer was a bit different. All the night bars were closing early so I finally got the shot I wanted with a shooting star as a bonus! Oh, the two bright stars are Jupiter and Saturn heading towards their great conjunction. The 2020 ‘Great Conjunction’ of Saturn and Jupiter is the closest these planets will appear in the sky since 1623!

The post Perseids Meteor Shower 2020 appeared first on Alexios Ntounas Photography.